Trex 450 SE Setup Tips

ROCK SOLID TAIL HOLD:
First off, I'll assume you are using a Futaba 401 gyro and a 9650 tail servo. As
shown in the photo above, disregard the manual when it says to place the tail shaft
flush with the tail blade hub. Move the tail blade hub out on the shaft, so that the
shaft is inside of the tail blade hub about 3/5's of the way through. Make sure the tail
hub set screw has some of the tail shaft all the way under it for support before you
tighten it back down. Click on the picture for an enlarged view. Now it is time to set
up the linkage from the servo..

Turn on the radio system and make sure the gyro servo is centered.
Install the gyro servo horn and linkage. Turn off the radio system and leave the gyro
servo centered with the horn and tail linkage installed. Don't tighten the tail servo
holders to the boom yet..

Slide the tail servo mount clamps forward and backward on the boom with the tail
servo and tail servo horn centered and the tail linkage rod attached to the tail pitch
slider lever. Get it so that the tail pitch slider is centered on the tail shaft when the tail
servo and tail servo horn are centered. Set the gyro gain to about 75% on a Futaba
radio and %70 on a JR radio. Fly and see if the tail wags. If so, lower the gain in 1%
increments untill it does not wag. Your tail should now be ready for heavy 3D.

Servo installation:
For a nice crisp and accurate helicopter, it is imperative to install your cyclic servos
with straight-to-the-swash links and the servos must be centered and parallel to the
ground when the swash is level, the washout arms and centered with eachother and
the helicopter rests at 0* pitch. Below are some examples of an SE servo
installation and the linkages to the ECCPM swash system..

Shown in this photo is the Elevator and Aileron servos on the left side of the Trex
upper frame. Notice the servos are level with the ground, swash is level, washout is
level and washout arms parallel to each other, and there is no pitch in the blade
grips. This is an ideally setup servo installation with straight links to the swashplate
as well. You don't want your links at an angle, as they will produce un-even
swashplate travel and will throw you off during heavy moves like Tic-Tocs and chaos
(piro-flips) where the swash is constantly changing it's position. These are the times
when high servo alignment accuracy comes into play most. You wont notice when
hovering if your linkages aren't straight, but you can feel when you begin to do 3D.
Click on the photos to enlarge them. More rotor head / servo install pics to follow.
Take the time to line up your servos mechanically first, then worry about the radio
settings later.

Viewed from the front. The purple fuel tubing is to securely hold my
canopy on. The rubber canopy grommets wore out and fell off after 50
flights. I cover my servo wires in electrical tape to help shield them from
noise associated with carbon frames. I then run them down to the RX
through the frame and secure them in place with zip ties.

Here is a correctly adjusted and centered rotor head with the servos installed as
shown. Notice everything is parallel to the ground and level. No pitch either. This is
how you want the helicopter to look at mid stick position on your pitch curve in your
radio. 0*.
More setup tips to follow, including setting up your pitch on a Spektrum radio.

Better Tail Boom Clamping:
The Trex 450 SE comes standard with short screws that go into the aluminum tubes
in the tail boom holder clamp. You can prevent stripping the aluminum tubes in the
boom clamp in the future when first building your trex 450 SE if you use longer screws
than the ones provided. Use the same screws that are ment for joining the upper and
lower frame halves together. The longer ones. There is one extra one included in
each kit, but you may have to get four to complete the set for the tail boom clamp.
Only loosen and tighten one side of your tail boom clamp when tightening or
loosening your tail belt.
To be continued

Antenna Routing:
When using pcm, it is best to have your antenna clear of any carbon, moving metal
parts or other wires from misc. electronics on the helicopter. You do not want your
antenna wrapped around the skids or around the boom. See below. I have tried and
tested many antenna routing ideas, and this seems to be the best for PCM I have
found. IF your bird is still getting motor cutouts and glitches, install a Medusa 2 amp
BEC and try flying at another field as far from any buildings or power lines as you can.
The smallest glitch on PCM will cut the motor out, forcing you to auto to the ground
unexpectedly. (normally resulting in a crash)

Mounting the receiver in the rear of the heli keeps it away from the motor and battery
as much as possible on this small helicopter. I wrap my wires in electric tape and
run them inside the frame secured in place with zipties to keep things looking clean.
You don't want wires rubbing on the carbon edges either, as it will cause the
shielding to rip eventually and short out wires. (yet again, causing a crash or glitching
like crazy). Lead the antenna out the back of the heli with fuel tubing, which will keep
it from bounding on the boom braces. Then into the antenna tube out to the front, and
finally back down to the rear of the heli with zipties of shrink tubing. Click the photo to
enlarge.
Don't laugh at my pink helicopter. I can see and fly it well, and chicks dig it =D